Mice can make very friendly pets, but do not attempt to keep wild mice! Domesticated mice come in a wide variety of colours. Males have a stronger smell and tend to be more aggressive towards each other, so for that reason females tend to make better pets.
They tend to live between 1 – 2½ years and a healthy adult should weigh between 20 – 60g depending on sex and age.
Mice love the company of other mice, so it’s best to keep them in same sex pairs or groups. A breeding pair of mice can produce a litter every 3 -4 weeks, with an average of eight to ten babies per litter, and can become pregnant within 24 hours of giving birth. Therefore, we strongly advise keeping males and females in separate cages!
A wire cage with a plastic tray floor are the best cages for mice. Two mice will need a cage that is at least 60cm x 50cm in floor space, by 30cm high. They can squeeze through tiny gaps, so ensure the gaps between the bars are no wider than your little finger.
Provide your mice with lots of wooden toys to gnaw on, and lots of other play things to bite, hide in, and generally run around with! Another fun game is to hide treats around the cage for them to forage and find. Mice love to climb, so provide branches to climb, or suspend rope from the roof of their cage for them to climb. They also love going through tunnels, so provide plastic or cardboard tubes for them to run through (and chew!).
You will need to have a deep layer of wood shavings for burrowing and use one area of the cage for a toilet. Have a nest box with nesting material inside. Mice tend to use one area of the cage for urinating, so this area will need to be cleaned frequently (perhaps daily) and the whole cage will need to be cleaned once a week. Keep the cage away from direct sunlight and draughts, and away from loud noises (e.g. TV, radio).
Although mice are friendly once tamed, they can be timid to start with, and will quite often bite when scared, so you will need to earn their trust before handling them. When you approach them, crouch down and speak very softly. Let them come to you – perhaps hold a treat in your hand for them to have, and be patient. They may not come to you the first time you try this. Once they are happy for you to have your hands near them, gently hold the mouse by the base (not the tip!) of the tail gently but firmly and slowly lift the back end and gently slide your hand under the mouse’s body.
NEVER wake your mouse up abruptly and pick it up as this could frighten them and they may react by biting you.
Mice are relatively clean animals so not need to be groomed regularly.
Neutering is not routinely performed in mice as any anaesthetic can prove risky for them. If you do not want your mice to have litters, then keep males and females in separate cages.
You should be feeding your mouse a good quality pelleted food. Ensure you choose a ‘nugget’ food, rather than muesli-style. With the muesli-style diets, they pick out the parts that they like and leave the parts that they don’t, which means that they may not get all of their required nutrients. Nugget-style pellets prevent this selective feeding, as each pellet has an equal amount of nutrients. Finally, you can also give your mouse some fresh greens, but not too many! Try to choose foods that are low in fat, such as carrot, apple and broccoli. They also love sunflower seeds, but these are quite high in fat so be careful not to give them too often. Take care if you are thinking of changing their diet, and always ensure you change foods over gradually, over a period of 10 days.
Tumours:
Mice are particularly susceptible to tumours, especially mammary tumours in females. 90% of mammary tumours in mice are malignant, and they can grow very quickly. Surgical removal can be performed when the mass is very small, but if left too long then surgery is no longer an option.
Respiratory Problems:
Breathing difficulties in mice are quite common and usually caused by poor living conditions. Always ensure you clean toilet areas every day or two, and the entire cage every week (at least).
If your pet is in any way unwell, contact your vet immediately to book an appointment.
There are many health and social advantages in neutering your pet, and we are happy to discuss this routine procedure with you and answer any queries you may have.
Like cats and dogs, we recommend routine neutering of rabbits.
Castrating males can help to calm them down, will eliminate the risk of testicular cancer and can prevent the rabbit from spraying everything, including you, with urine! We can castrate male rabbits from about 4 months of age.
Spaying females can help to reduce any aggressive and territorial behaviour. It also eliminates the risk of Uterine Cancer, which is extremely common in un-neutered female rabbits. We can spay female rabbits from 4-6 months of age.
Neutering male and female rabbits also makes litter training a lot easier and allows you to keep more than one rabbit together happily.
Rabbits are highly intelligent, social, sensitive and inquisitive animals. They are the third most popular pet after cats and dogs but are the most neglected with latest figures showing that 80% do not receive the correct care.
Although they are extremely cute and appealing to children, rabbits are not easy pets to look after. Contrary to popular belief they do not enjoy being handled and, having such delicate skeletons, can break bones easily. They require lots of care and time for the entirety of their lives, which could be up to 8-15 years!
There are over 35,000 rabbits is rescue centres around this country looking for a new home. Most centres will neuter and vaccinate their rabbits before finding them a new home and often rely solely on donations and people’s generosity to fund this. Many rabbits are given up when the novelty wears off and the reality of their care sets in. These rabbits find themselves in rescue centres through no fault of their own.
If you are thinking of getting rabbits, why not visit your local re-homing centre and offer a needy rabbit a second chance in life?
The RSPCA and RWA (Rabbit Welfare Association) state that a pair of small to medium rabbits should have a minimum of 6ft long x 2ft deep x 2ft high hutch with an attached 6ft long by 4ft wide x 2ft high run. Of course bigger is better!
Rabbits are highly sociable creatures and, in the wild, live in groups. A rabbit that is forced to live alone will become extremely depressed and will not be able to display its natural behaviour.
The most successful combination is a neutered male and a neutered female. New rabbits should always be introduced to each other on neutral territory (i.e. a place where neither of them has been before). Please speak to our nurses if you require more information.
Although it was common practice years ago, rabbits and guinea pigs must not be housed together. They have completely different dietary needs, and rabbits have also been known to seriously injure and even kill guinea pigs on several occasions due to their size and the strength of their back legs. Most importantly, rabbits and guinea pigs that are not given the opportunity to live with another of their own kind will never be truly happy as rabbits and guinea pigs cannot communicate with each other.
Rabbits are prey animals and, therefore, hide the fact that they are in pain very well. If you notice that your rabbit is acting differently or does not seem its normal self, it is better to get them checked by a vet. Rabbits teeth grow continuously and, if not worn down correctly, can form sharp spurs that dig into the rabbit’s cheek and tongue and cause immense pain. The grinding motion of the teeth when a rabbit eats hay is the best way to ensure their teeth wear down – another reason why hay is such an important part of their diet.
Rabbits have a very complex and delicate digestive system. They need to be able to graze all day in order to keep their guts mobile. If a rabbit stops eating for any reason, it must be seen by a vet straight away. If left untreated, the rabbit can go into stasis, where their digestive tract slows right down. This is very painful and can easily be fatal.
Unlike cats and dogs (and humans!), rabbits should not be starved before an operation. Therefore, if you bring your rabbit in for a surgical procedure, please feed them as normal and bring some of their food with them as we like to try and get them eating as soon as possible once they have woken up.
Encephalitozoon Cuniculi (EC) is a single-celled parasite that can cause complete paralysis, kidney and eye infection and death. Many rabbits have already been exposed to the parasite but may not show symptoms until later in life or when another illness or stress triggers the disease. It can remain hidden for years and can affect other animals and even humans. It is transmitted by spores in the urine and can be caught from dirty food and water bowls and unsanitary living conditions. It can also be passed from mother to babies when they are in to womb. Common symptoms of EC include excessive drinking and urination, weight loss, cataracts, head tilt, hind leg paralysis, tremors, kidney failure and, at worst, death.
The best way to treat EC is with a course of Panacur or Lapizole, administered orally once a day for 28 days. Your rabbit should be treated with one of these products if they are displaying any symptoms or at times of stress (i.e. after another illness, introducing rabbits to each other and after acquiring a new rabbit). It is also important to disinfect the rabbit’s environment and food bowls regularly.
Flystrike is a common condition in rabbits, especially in the warmer weather. Rabbits that are more at risk include those who are overweight (as they are not able to clean themselves properly), those who live in dirty conditions and those who are confined to small spaces with little room to move around. Flies will lay their eggs in warm moist areas (such as a rabbit’s dirty bottom). The eggs will then hatch and the maggots will eat their way into the rabbit’s body. If not treated early, Flystrike is fatal.
Please contact us straight away if you notice any of the following:
Your rabbits need protection against two common diseases, Myxomatosis and Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease. We use a combined vaccine that prevents both diseases in one injection and can be given from 5 weeks old. A booster vaccination is required annually.
Is caused by a virus spread by blood sucking insects such as mosquitoes and the rabbit flea, which can affect both outdoor and house rabbits. Sadly, this can be fatal, so it is essential to provide all-year-round protection, as the virus can remain alive in the blood of hibernating fleas over the winter.
VHD is spread via direct contact with infected rabbits and on our clothing, shoes and objects. This disease can be rapidly fatal in those pets that are not vaccinated. A rabbit will often show no signs of VHD
Join our Pet Health Care Plan to save money and spread the cost on annual health checks and vaccinations, seasonal flystrike treatment, a nail trim and more! You can also take advantage of a 10% discount on neutering, dental treatments, in-house laboratory tests, food and much more.
For more information and to sign up now click here!
Rabbits require a diet that is extremely high in fibre and should be at least 85-90% good quality hay and/or grass. They should have constant access to fresh water.
Traditional muesli mixes are very high in sugar, low in fibre and encourage selective feeding (the rabbit will pick out their favourite bits and leave the rest). This means that your rabbit will miss out on some essential nutrients.
The best dried food for rabbits comes in pellet form, such as Burgess Excel. Each pellet is nutritionally balanced to ensure your rabbit gets all the nutrients it needs in each bite. It is important not to feed too many pellets or your rabbits will not eat their hay. As a guide, a small to medium rabbit only needs an egg-cup full of dried food per day. Always check the packaging to ensure you are feeding the correct amount.
A small amount of fresh vegetables, such as spring greens, broccoli, basil, parsley, mint, cabbage and cauliflower leaves can be fed daily. Fruit and sweet vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips and apples should be fed in moderation (no more than once a week) as they are very high in sugar.
There are many health and social advantages in neutering your pet, and we are happy to discuss this routine procedure with you and answer any queries you may have.
Males can be neutered, also known as ‘castrated’, from 6 months of age. This is equally as important as spaying females, as it prevents testicular cancer. Neutering will also lower the levels of testosterone and help to prevent undesirable sexual behaviours. It will stop him from pestering females and possibly causing more unwanted litters! Neutering can also help to reduce urine marking and some forms of aggression which are influenced by the male hormones.
Females can be spayed from 6 months of age. Neutering is important as it prevents uterine disease, reduces the risk of mammary cancer and prevents unwanted litters. It is a common concern that bitches need to have a litter of puppies or a season before they are spayed. However, neither of these provide any health benefits at all and will only add to the problem of rescue centres being overrun with unwanted puppies.
Please see our pre-operative and post-operative instructions for more information on what to expect when your pet comes in for neutering.
This information has been designed to give you a rough guide of what’s required when owning a puppy.
Unless you are concerned about your new puppy, we would recommend letting him/her settle into their new home for at least 5–7 days before bringing them in for their primary vaccinations and or health check. This gives them time to adjust to their new surroundings and lifestyle before subjecting them to another new and slightly daunting experience of coming to the veterinary surgery.
Getting your puppy into a routine is vital and start as you mean to go on.
For example, it may be advisable to crate your puppy at night downstairs, this should be started and stuck to. Having them upstairs on the bed with you for the first few weeks can get the puppy in an unwanted routine! Unfortunately, your puppy may whine at night and it can make you feel responsible but remember they have just been taken from a safe and calming environment; they have left their litter mates and most importantly their mother. Try giving them a teddy or a warm hot-water bottle (wrapped in a towel) for comfort.
You can also use an ‘Adaptil’ collar to help when first settling your puppy in. This collar releases a copy of the calming pheromones released by a lactating bitch. It can be very useful when socialising your puppy and introducing them to new things, as well as helping them settle at night. Ask a member of staff for more details.
A puppy’s primary vaccination course is followed by a yearly booster. This will help protect them against the infectious diseases of:
The primary course consists of two vaccinations given 4 weeks apart. We can give an optional third vaccination at 16 weeks old. Please speak to your vet regarding vaccine protocols.
A yearly kennel cough intranasal vaccine is advisable for those that have close contact with other dogs such as in kennels, exercise areas, training classes and dog shows.
If you are considering travelling abroad with your pet, then a rabies vaccination is part of the criteria to obtain a pet’s passport.
Click here to visit our vaccination page
We highly recommend insuring your puppy – the earlier you take out a policy the better. A suitable policy will ensure you can be there for your pet when they need it most, without the need to worry about vet bills.
It’s useful to shop around to make sure you get the best policy for your money. We would always suggest considering a lifetime policy, as this will give you and your pet the most comprehensive cover.
Find out more about the importance of pet insurance.
Treating your puppy for worms and fleas is essential. Sometimes they have been treated by the breeder before you collect them, but you should always check this and, if possible, have evidence of this in their paperwork given to you.
The recommendation for treatment for worms in your new puppy is generally every two weeks until they are twelve weeks of age, every month until six months of age and then every 1-3 months throughout the rest of their life.
Treating for fleas should be done routinely throughout the rest of their life. Depending on your choice of product that can vary between 4 weeks up to 6 months.
Click here for more information on fleas
Puppies should be fed little and often so their small stomachs don’t become overloaded. As a guide, it is advised to feed 4 meals daily up to 4 months of age, 3 meals daily up to 6 months, then 2 meals daily from 6 months old. Always make sure that any change in diet is made gradually over a period of 1-2 weeks.
Monitoring their growth is vital; if your puppy grows and puts on too much weight too quickly, it puts stress on their immature bone structure which can cause problems for them.
It can be very confusing and a little bewildering to make a choice. Essentially, premium diets contain better quality ingredients and tend to be better for your puppy as a rule. They usually require a smaller portion size compared to the cheaper alternatives due to the higher quality ingredients being used. In actual fact, the cost doesn’t differ too much at all.
Wet food can spoil quickly and attracts flies, particularly in the warmer months, whereas dry food is more hygienic and can be purchased in bulk and stored easily. Many dry foods are specially formulated for age, breed and size of your dog. The kibble size and shape are tailored to individual needs.
It shouldn’t be necessary to supplement your puppy’s diet at all when feeding with a complete diet. Neither is it essential to give milk, your puppy will receive enough calcium in their food.
Giving treats as incentives are good for training purposes but should never be more than 15% of their dietary intake. Chews are good for puppies, especially during teething and for oral hygiene purposes. Some dental chews can be high in fat so be aware of this.
Many behavioural problems seen in older dogs could have been prevented if the dog had been given the opportunity to learn social skills, manners and communication by the age of 16 weeks.
Taking your puppy to training classes will allow them to meet other puppies and people of all shapes, ages and sizes in a fun and rewarding environment (for both you and your puppy!) Training with your puppy will also help you build an incredibly strong relationship with them.
Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.
Microchipping is the best way to identify your dog. It is a legal requirment to have your dog microchipped from 8 weeks of age. A tiny microchip is injected under the skin between the shoulder blades. This chip has a unique number which shows up when scanned. The number is registered along with your details on a national database. If your dog goes wandering and is taken to a vet or a rescue centre, they will be scanned and can then retrieve your contact details.
Microchipping can be done at the same time as vaccinations or neutering.
Please click here for more information about microchipping.
Getting your new puppy vaccinated is one of the most important things you should do in your first few weeks as a dog owner. Dog vaccinations help to protect your pets from severe infectious diseases. It also prevents them from passing anything nasty on to other animals in the area.
A puppy’s primary vaccination course is followed by a yearly booster; this will help to protect them against the infectious diseases of:
The primary course consists of two vaccinations given 4 weeks apart. We can give an optional third vaccination at 16 weeks old. Please speak to your vet regarding vaccine protocols.
A yearly kennel cough intranasal vaccine is advisable for those that have close contact with other dogs such as in kennels, exercise areas, training classes and dog shows.
If you are considering travelling abroad with your pet, then a rabies vaccination is part of the criteria to obtain a Animal Health Certificate.
Join our Pet Health Care Plan to save money and spread the cost on annual health checks and vaccinations, 12 months supply of flea, worming and tick* treatment, nail trims and more! You can also take advantage of a 10% discount on neutering, dental treatments, in-house laboratory tests, Adaptil, food, Seresto Collars and much more.
For more information and to join today click here!
*Tick preventative treatment is available on our Plus Plans.
Fleas can cause skin disease, bite humans and also carry tapeworms. Look out for black specks along your pet’s spine, or when you comb her or him, wipe the comb on a damp tissue – if the dirt on the tissue starts to bleed out, this means that this is flea dirt (as opposed to mud), and she/he has fleas.
As with majority of health care, prevention is better than cure, so it is important to regularly use flea treatments. There are a variety of methods used to prevent fleas, we use prescription only products, as these products are newer and there is much less resistance to them that the older drugs that are available in the shops. A check up for flea treatment is FREE and this means you can buy flea (and worm) treatment from us for a full year after the consultation.
Please contact the staff at the surgery for further information on flea control.
Cats can suffer infestations of roundworms and tapeworms which can cause digestive upsets as well as posing a risk to human health. 
There are a number of products which can be used to prevent and treat worms, and many of these will also treat fleas (see above). Please contact us in practice for more information about the right treatment choice for your cat.
In the summer months ticks can become a problem for our four legged friends. Not only are they unpleasant and capable of causing your pet irritation, they can also transmit Lyme Disease to humans. We have products in-practice which treat ticks. Please contact us for more information
This information has been designed to give you a rough guide of what’s required when owning a kitten.
Cats can be independent creatures and make great pets for busy people, but they still need to be looked after. You can expect to share your life with a cat for 16 years or more so taking on a kitten is a big responsibility, not to be taken lightly.
When you first bring your kitten home, you should ensure you have the basic items that he/she will need.
• A room or secure place where he can feel safe and away from other pets (somewhere you know he can be left at night or when you go out)
• A comfortable bed or box to sleep in
• A food and water bowl
• A litter tray
• Toys
• A place to hide (An igloo type bed is ideal but an up-turned cardboard box with a kitten-sized opening works just as well)
Try to make a calm, quiet atmosphere for the first introduction to your home. Let him/her come out of the basket into his/her new space in his/her own time. Keep any other pets out of the room while he/she is first exploring.
Show your kitten where the litter tray is (this should be placed as far away as possible from his food and water bowl). Cats instinctively know what they are supposed to do in a litter tray, but it helps if the litter is deep enough to allow the kitten to dig a hole and to be able to completely cover and hide what he/she has done. Insufficient litter will cause cats to spend ages in a litter tray trying to produce the right conditions to go to the loo and be able to cover it up afterwards.
Your family will be excited to meet their new addition but try not to let the situation become too overwhelming. Introducing all the family and other pets is best done gradually over a series of days and always under supervision. Your kitten will grow in confidence and you will soon be able to judge how much you can allow him/her to do. Some cats will be naturally more confident, while others will remain timid. It is important that you allow your kitten to progress in his/her own time.
Take your time when introducing your other pets. As a kitten has recently left their family, they should adjust to other cats relatively easily, however, your adult cats may not be quite as welcoming towards him! Don’t force the issue. Always make sure that there is an escape route, or somewhere to hide for both/all cats. Your adult cats are likely to appreciate a high place to sit and observe.
The full course of vaccinations for your kitten can start at 8-9 weeks of age and will protect him from Feline Enteritis, Cat Flu and Feline Leukaemia. The full course consists of two injections with a gap of 3 -4 weeks between. A single dose booster once a year is then recommended thereafter to keep up your cat’s level of immunity.
Click here to visit our vaccination page
Unfortunately, your kitten is likely to bring a few unwanted additions into your home and treatment for fleas and worms is very important. When visiting us for the first time we will provide the appropriate treatment to suit your kitten.
Click here for more information on Parasite Control
At our veterinary practices we stock a wide range of food tailored for your kitten’s life-stage–from weaning, through growth and into adulthood. We recommend dry food, and fresh water should be constantly available.
It is best to make any changes in diet gradually, so always check what food your kitten is used to. The new dry food can be sprinkled on top to make a steady change.
Never give cow’s milk as most cats are intolerant. It can cause diarrhoea which can be very serious in kittens. For recently weaned kittens, specialised kitten milk can be given.
At least four meals a day should be given, reducing to two meals a day by the age of around 6 months.
Both male and female cats can be neutered from the age of 4 months.
Neutering (or castrating) a male cat will help prevent him from developing the unwanted characteristics and behaviour of a tom cat. Tom cats are likely to feel the need to mark their territory (which includes inside your home) by spraying urine. Tom cats’ urine has a very strong and unpleasant odour which is very difficult to get rid of. They will also wander much greater distances in search of females and may consequently encounter dangerous situations, such as busy roads and a higher number of other cats wanting to protect their own territory. This can lead to lots of fights. Many un-neutered male cats will be seen in the surgery with infected bite wounds. Neutering your male cat will also ensure he cannot father any unwanted kittens.
Neutering (or spaying) a female cat will of course prevent her from having kittens. Some people would like their cat to have a litter before spaying. We don’t recommend this as it has no health benefits at all and only adds to the number of kittens that need good homes, so please think carefully! Spaying also reduces the risk of uterine infections, which can be fatal. Spaying your cat before she comes into heat provides the best prevention of unwanted litters and uterine diseases.
Click here to visit our neutering page
Microchipping is the best way to identify your cat. A tiny microchip is injected under the skin between the shoulder blades. This chip has a unique number which shows up when scanned. The number is registered along with your details on a national database. If your cat goes astray and is taken to a vet or a rescue centre, they will be scanned and your contact details retrieved.
Microchipping can be done at the same time as vaccinations or neutering.
Click here for more information on microchipping
We highly recommend insuring your new kitten. Pet insurance can be used for most illnesses and injuries and allows you to claim your veterinary fees back.
Not all policies are the same, so it can be useful to shop around to help compare the overall value of what is being offered, not just the price. At St Kitts Veterinary Group, we recommend that you take out a lifetime policy to give you the best cover.
Find out more about the importance of pet insurance.
Grooming your kitten is a good way to promote bonding. Long-haired cats will require daily grooming throughout their lives to prevent them from becoming matted, so starting young will get them used to it.
Grooming is also a good way to check your cat for any lumps, bumps and wounds that may otherwise go unnoticed. Signs of fleas are easily spotted. Flea dirt shows as small black specks amongst the hair caught in the comb. (If put on a wet piece of tissue, flea dirt will turn a brown/red colour).
If your kitten wears a collar, please make sure that it is not too loose. Don’t forget as your kitten grows his collar will need to be adjusted.
Good collars to get are the ones that fasten with a plastic clasp that will easily come apart if the collar is caught. This will ensure that your cat does not become trapped or injure themselves by trying to escape from their caught collar. One type of collar that we strongly advise against are the ones with elastic on them. If a cat becomes caught, they often use their paw to try and free themselves. With the elasticated collars, it can expand to allow the paw through, but then becomes trapped under their axilla (armpit), which can cause very nasty injuries. We sell a variety of collars at the practice.
Microchipping is a more reliable way to identify your kitten, with far less potential for problems!
If you feel your kitten has settled well in their new surroundings and they are showing an interest in the big outdoors, then you can allow them to explore further. Do not let them outside before they have finished their vaccinations, and once they have done so, it is advised to wait a further 7 days before allowing them to venture outside. Also, take into consideration that un-neutered cats may run off and mate and get into territorial fights, so think carefully before letting them roam before neutering. It is always advised to have your cat microchipped before letting them out, so if they wander off, they can be returned to you.
The right time for their first outdoor adventure can depend on where you live. If you have a secure garden that they will not be able to wander away from you can accompany them outside a week after they have had their full course of vaccinations. This is best done just before they have a meal which will make it easier to encourage them back inside! Just ten minutes or so for youngsters is a good start.
If you are not confident about your garden, you may feel they need to be a bit older, neutered and microchipped before going out. Again, do this before their usual mealtime, early in the day, giving you plenty of time before it gets dark just in case things don’t go to plan. Go outside with them and call them in for food after about ten minutes.
If you have a cat flap, they will need to be shown how it works by gently encouraging them to go through it. Cats pick this up very quickly.
Just be patient and allow plenty of time for your kitten to grow in confidence at his own pace.
Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.
